Interior designers know the quickest and most inexpensive way to dramatically change a room’s style is to attack those boring white walls. Sure, you could try painting the room a bold new shade, but the newest design techniques go a step further with drywall, faux painting, and nontraditional wall coverings.

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1. Drywall Textures

Once purely functional, drywall techniques are now a designer’s trick. Using drywall techniques to add new architectural or design touches, or simply retexturing ceilings and walls, can update the overall appearance of a home with a relatively small investment.

Walls and ceilings can be finished in many different ways. Retexturing or smoothing walls can freshen and modernize older homes or even return the original character to period homes that may have been carelessly remodeled.

Changing up the old-fashioned styles of texture (such as skip & trowel or brushed) can significantly freshen and update a 30-year-old home.

On the other hand, covering those styles of texture with a new layer of hand-troweled joint compound to resemble plaster could restore the charm to a 1900 Victorian. Custom textures and treatments, such as combining textured walls with totally smooth ceilings, can give a home a unique look.

Try the Orange Peel Finish: Very popular right now, the orange peel finish is created by spraying texture compound onto a smooth wall and then letting it dry. Paint when ready for a brand new look.

2. Faux Painting

One of the most popular ways to create a change in your home today is through faux painting. Faux painting incorporates decorative and special paint finishes, as well as techniques that resemble wallpaper, such as glazing, sponging, ragging, wood graining and even freehand designs.

Although many illusions can be achieved with faux finishing techniques on flat surfaces, textured products can create three-dimensional effects. Products applied in layers to walls, fireplaces and ceilings can look and feel like real stone, crumbling masonry, or peeling paint for a European country look. Other popular finishes resemble linen, grass cloth or denim.

With a little skill, a great idea and a new color scheme your home’s interior can resemble an ancient Tuscan building, a marble wall or even a cloudy day.

Try a suede finish: To warm up a formal room such as a dining room, library or office, consider a suede finish. Textured paints containing solid materials like silica can make walls look-and even feel-like suede.

Experience the difference of a fresh coat of paint! Use this link to
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3. Non-traditional Wall Coverings

Wallpaper has always been a popular alternative to painting a room. But, in addition to traditional wallpaper, there are many types of wall coverings that will enliven a room. Bright fabrics, grass cloth, even cork are becoming popular as unique ways to dramatically change a room’s appearance.

Some non-traditional wall covering options:

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* Foil (some people refer to it by the brand name “Mylar”) can be difficult to work with because it shows imperfections in the wall surface and because it can get wrinkled easily. But the silver, reflective surface and the patterns on many foil wallpapers can be strikingly contemporary.
* Cork-faced wall coverings are thicker because they have a surface of cork. They make for a cozy, dark and woodsy effect and can often be seen in family rooms or offices.
* Paper-backed fabric shows the high-quality look of a fabric wall covering but can be installed with the ease of a vinyl-coated paper. The backing adds a stiffness that both hides defects in the wall and makes it easier to manage the fabric.

source:servicemagic

Fewer homeowners may be starting complete kitchen remodels, but they’re still replacing countertops and re-facing cabinets. They’re also investing in improvements to make their homes more energy-efficient, according to a recent home remodeling and repair report by ServiceMagic.com. Others are splurging on hot tubs and home theaters after realizing that they may be in their homes for some years to come-and want to make them as comfortable as possible.

“People are not going bigger and better, but improving what they have more cost effectively,” said Craig Smith, CEO of ServiceMagic, a website that connects homeowners to prescreened contractors. For instance, instead of buying new furniture, they’re repairing what they have. Or they’re deep cleaning the carpet in lieu of replacing it.

All for good reason: Money is tight, lending standards strict and in a sluggish housing market you might not recoup as much of your remodeling investment at resale.

Home improvement spending is expected to decline 12% in 2009, according to Harvard University’s Joint Center for Housing Studies. Lower financing costs may be starting to stabilize the downturn in existing home sales, but “they have not been enough to offset rising unemployment and falling consumer confidence and encourage homeowners to undertake major home improvement projects,” said Kermit Baker, director of the Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center.

It’s much different than the days when home-equity lending was plentiful. Before doing anything, homeowners are carefully considering how they should spend their money.

In the days of easy credit, “there was a feeling of ‘we can’t go wrong, let’s just get started,’” said Bill Judson, an architect with HartmanBaldwin Design/Build, based in Claremont, Calif. “Now, it’s harder to get money, in terms of credit, and homeowners are taking it a little slower and educating themselves a little more.”

Meanwhile, those who do upgrade may be in for a bargain: Costs of materials, including lumber and copper, have dropped somewhat, Judson said. The biggest price cut has been related to lower labor costs as surviving contractors struggle to compete, he added.

The kitchen and bathroom are traditionally rooms where remodeling pays off. Some homeowners are still going through with full remodels these days, said Kimberly Sweet, editor of Kitchens.com. But they aren’t the norm. “A lot of people are making do with what they have, or maybe choosing to spruce up a few things and not do a full remodel,” Sweet said.

Nationally, the volume of countertop project requests rose 39% in the first quarter of 2009, compared with the first quarter of 2008, while major kitchen remodels are down 19%, according to ServiceMagic’s most recent Home Remodeling and Repair Index/Survey. The data comes from the company’s service requests; the site received 4.2 million requests from homeowners in 2008. Service requests for bathroom remodels were down 10% in the first quarter of this year, according to the report.

At the recent Kitchen/Bath Industry Show, affordable remodeling products included liquid stainless steel to refinish appliances and do-it-yourself backsplashes, Sweet said. Re-facing or painting cabinets and updating cabinet hardware have always been an option to remodel on a budget. For replacements, there are improved cabinet options in thermofoil, she said. Consumers still gravitate toward granite countertops, but other less expensive-yet still attractive-countertop materials are available, Sweet added. For those considering resale values, it might be best to go for minor fix-ups. “Doing all the high end may not get you the return you were looking for before,” Sweet continued. “You don’t want to be the most expensive house on the block in this market.”

According to Remodeling Magazine’s 2008-2009 Cost vs. Value report, replacement projects that improve curb appeal-including siding, windows and decks-are some of your best bets for recouping money at resale.

Upgrading windows can make a home more energy-efficient. ServiceMagic has seen more interest in projects including insulation and solar-panel installation, which cut energy bills and are likely eligible for government tax credits, according to the company’s report.

And some homeowners are investing in home energy audits, for a comprehensive view of what can be done to increase efficiency, said Smith. The cost: Between $300 and $500. “But people will pay that because the insight provided can save them a lot of money down the road.” An audit can help homeowners prioritize projects.

Most home improvement projects may be practical these days, but some splurges are also becoming popular as market conditions force people to stay in a home longer than previously planned and as the economy has them spending more time entertaining at home. As a result, some homeowners are buying hot tubs, spas and saunas, as well as TVs and other home theater components, Smith said.

Compared to large-scale remodeling projects, “hot tubs are not a massive out-of-pocket expense,” Smith said. And “with the prices of flat-screen TVs coming down and the whole ’staycation’ phenomenon,” updated media rooms also have appeal, he added.

source: RIS Media

So, you want to save money on your New York house bills and put more dough in your pockets. You open up your mail and there it is- $30-$40 + more than last month. You scratch your head and wonder why have the utilities gone up? Could it be the taxes are higher? Maybe, but not that much. Have you been keeping the house too warm, or washing your clothes in hot water- a lot? Maybe it’s time you converted your home into an energy-efficient house. You’ll save time and money by fixing up your home now and you’ll see the difference in your bills next month.
How can you make your home more energy-efficient? Here are some ways to improve the way you live:

Air Ducts- Have your ducts checked for any separation at the joints and fix them if there is. You could be saving yourself up to 20% on your heating-cooling bills.

Gaps- Weather strip gaps in door frames and windows to save at least 10% on your heating bills. You can also caulk gaps where electrical wiring and pipes protrude from exterior walls, and plug all leaks.

Heat-Recovery Ventilator- During colder months, your bills are higher. You don’t need the additional headache of wondering if your heating is going out the window. Why not install a heat-recovery ventilator- they gather about 70% of the heat from the air exiting the house and reconnect it to the fresh air coming in.

Insulation- Add layers to certain parts of your home that has poor insulation such as the attic, crawl spaces or the floors above basements, and exterior walls. For most applications, rigid boards and batts will do just fine and for side wall cavities, sprayed-in foam is best suited for the job. Remember- no matter the job- you can always mix and layer different forms of insulation.

Light Bulbs- Lose the cheap incandescent bulbs and buy ones that are CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light). They are more expensive, but they last up to ten times longer and use 70-75% less energy.

Major Appliances- Get rid of them if they are more than seven years old and replace with a newer model that carries the Energy Star® label.

Thermostat- Turn the heat down to around 65 degrees while you and your family are home. While you all are gone, bring it down 10 more degrees- you’ll save more money that way. Who wouldn’t want to save at least 10% on their heating bill each month?

Trees – Don’t cut them down! According to the American Society of Landscape Architects, you should have windbreaks of evergreen trees and shrubs to the N, W, and E of your home to reduce wind 10-15%.

Water Heater – Did you know that 14% of an average home’s energy expenses goes toward heating water for bathing and washing? In just 10 months you could see a big difference in your water bill by covering your water heater in an insulating blanket.

Windows – Buy energy efficient windows which can save you up to 27%.

11 Tips to Rejuvenate Your Living Space

RISMEDIA, March 21, 2009- (MCT)-Forget the pessimistic attitude, recessionistas. While the outside world can appear pretty depressing these days, your home can still be your haven, and it doesn’t have to cost a lot of money to lift your spirits.

Carlos Matta, a Miami “lifestyle designer,” does everything from finding his clients a home to stocking it with towels and bed linens and lives by the mantra: Minor changes can add glam without damaging your budget.
“You should brighten your living spaces because that’s where you go at the end of the day to energize your batteries,” he said. “Our surroundings can affect our mood completely. We want to come home to a homey feeling.”

Turn your home into a haven by following these simple steps:

1. Move things around.
2. Sometimes all it takes to re-energize a room is to move the furniture around. The best way to start is to move all the furniture out of the room and look at the space with fresh eyes. Consider all the rooms in your home a “store” and move furniture and accessories from room to room.
3. Shop around for good deals. Don’t be afraid to negotiate a lower price when you shop. “You will be surprised how much you can get by asking,” Matta said, pointing out he has haggled for additional discounts. “Everyone wants to sell, and this is the perfect time to get a bargain.”
4. Decorate your wall with porcelain plates. You don’t even have to leave the house to accomplish this. Go into your cupboard and find plates that look compatible. Matta said it’s best to keep the arrangement simple and use no more than three colors. Arrange the plates on a large table and play around with the elements until you find an arrangement you like. Take pictures with your digital camera to help you compare your ideas. Measure the spaces between the plates and hang them on the wall. You can find plate hangers at a crafts store or look for them online.
5. Garden stools aren’t just for the garden. They can be used as inexpensive end tables or simply put a couple together with a glass top to make a coffee table. Look for good deals in local consignment shops and online. Some of the best buys are on overstock.com.
6. Buy new pillows in happy, vibrant colors. Changing your throw pillows is a great way to enhance a sofa, bed or chair. You can change them seasonally. Use pastels for spring and brighter colors for summer. Add a throw to pick up one of the colors.
7. Be creative with wall art. You don’t have to spend a fortune on fancy, framed art. Instead, buy stock frames and fill them with black-and-white photos from books or with different fabrics.
8. Forget the neutrals in main living areas. Paint the walls in a happy color, such as yellow, which is full of energy. Don’t be afraid of intensity- go for it full blast.
9. Don’t forget the laundry room. Most of us enter our homes through the garage and laundry room, but it’s the one space we often forget to decorate. Make it the room that makes you smile. Creating horizontal or vertical stripes allows you to make the ceilings look taller or the room look bigger. Put blue tape on the walls to visualize how it will look.
10. Add an area rug. Rugs define areas, such as dining or conversation groups, and they can warm up a room.
11. Keep window treatments simple. Keep it light where you want to enjoy the view. Spend money on a quality, attractive rod and dress it with inexpensive side panels.

See some tips that you can use to better work in the kitchen.

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Q: I am having a problem with my blacktop driveway. I have lived in my townhome for seven years, and I have always had it seal-coated every year. The townhome is approximately 20 years old. Last year I noticed that the driveway seemed to be cracking and splitting. I had the seal-coating done and the cracks filled. The gentleman who did the job said that the driveway was heaving due to pipes that ran from the house to the street. I called our public works department and they said that could not be the case because we would notice water in the grass or street area. I called our architectural committee and the gentleman from there said it was simply settling. My neighbors’ driveways do not seem to be having the same problem or seem to be settling.
I live in a cold part of Illinois, and would like to repair the drive or perhaps put in pavers, but am not sure of what to do. I am a widow and do not have any close males in the family. I really do not understand some of these household problems. Could you recommend someone who could properly advise me in this matter?
A: Asphalt is typically laid over a subbase of compacted gravel, and it’s relatively stable unless something happens to the gravel underneath it. Given the fact that the driveway is 20 years old, and has been OK up to this point, I doubt it has suddenly started to “settle.” My suspicion is that there may be a water leak of some sort that’s happening under the driveway and causing the gravel to move. If there are indeed water lines running under the driveway and one of them is leaking, you would not necessarily see water in the street or lawn — it could be a slow leak that is going straight down.
You are going to need to have a paving contractor come out and take a look. Your homeowner’s insurance agent should be able to make a recommendation for a trustworthy local contractor, or you could ask your architectural committee or the person who did the recent sealing. The contractor will need to come out and examine the situation, and perhaps remove a small section of the driveway to determine what is going on underneath.
If there is a leak or some other source of groundwater that is causing the problem, then it will need to be repaired before you either repave or install pavers (the pavers would probably be the better choice). You will also need to determine who is responsible for the repairs: you, the city or the condo association. Unfortunately, you may need the assistance of an attorney for that one.
If the problem is not a leak, then the contractor should be able to grade and compact the gravel again, and then pave or do the pavers for you.
Q: I have a home that was built in 1969 and have a real insulation problem. The home is brick on the outside, has 2×4s with that pink 1/2 insulation then drywall on the inside. I live in the Midwest and of course most of my problems are from the house situation with north exposure. I have thought about building a second interior wall, but unfortunately all the cabinets in my kitchen would have to be removed and installed elsewhere. When I open the cabinets on a breezy 10-degree day, I literally can feel the cold. Are there any other options such as a spray-in-type insulation that can be done from the inside of the house that would seal it better?
A: If you have a house that already has insulation in the walls, there’s nothing you can add to those cavities for more insulating value unless you tear into them. Since you mention particularly noticing the cold on a breezy day, I would look at air leakage as being the primary culprit. With brick siding, there are dozens of areas around windows, doors and other penetrations where gaps exist, and by sealing those with a good-quality clear silicone sealant you should see a definite difference. In other areas that you have access to, such as the attic or crawl space, use an expandable foam sealant in a can to seal plumbing and wiring penetrations where they enter the walls. It’s a small thing, but you can also stop interior air leaks by adding foam gaskets to all your outlets and switches.
Finally, make sure that you upgrade the insulation in those areas that you have access to, like the attic and the floor above crawl spaces and unheated basements. Helping those spaces to better retain heat will make the entire house feel warmer, and will have a positive effect on your comfort and your energy bills. Also, while you’re up in the attic or under the floor, be sure that all ventilation fans as well as your clothes dryer are vented all the way to the outside of the house. This will help prevent unwanted moisture, and will also help from pressurizing the house and forcing cold air into cavities where it can eventually get into the house.

Hideaway Desk

Transform a rarely used closet into your home office. Paint, a pendant light, bulletin boards, and various ready-to-assemble storage units are all you need to construct a complete office. Use table legs and wall brackets to convert a prefinished wall shelf into a slim desk.

Found this article on Do-it Yourself. Good information

Enjoy!!!!!

“Wood. It’s one of the single most common materials we use for home improvement projects, from rough framing to fine finish work. Take one glance through a well-stocked lumberyard and you’ll quickly see that there is a huge variety of different woods available, with an equally huge collection of terminology. So to simplify things a little for your next project, here — in alphabetical order — is a basic look at some of the things you might want to know about wood.

Board-Foot (BF): A standard measurement of lumber, equal to a piece of wood that is 12 inches wide, 12 inches long and 1 inch thick. To convert the size of any piece of lumber into board feet, use the following formula: Width (in inches) x Thickness (in inches) x Length (in feet) divided by 12. For example, a board that is 10 inches wide, 2 inches thick and 14 feet long would contain 23.33 board feet (10 x 2 x 14 / 12).

Clear: Wood that is free of knots, pitch pockets and other defects. This is typically the most expensive grade of wood.

Dimensional Lumber: This is the standard, pre-dimensioned wood used primarily in framing. It is milled to set sizes, such as 2×4, 4×6, etc., which is where the name is derived from.

Engineered Wood: This refers to a wide variety of sheets, boards and trim, made up from smaller pieces of wood that are bonded together using various combinations of adhesive, heat and pressure. Laminated beams, plywood and particleboard sheets, and composite siding and trim boards are all examples of engineered wood.

Hardwood and Softwood: The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” can be a little confusing, in that they have no real bearing on how hard or soft the wood actually is. Hardwoods come from broad-leafed, deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves seasonally), while softwoods come from needle-bearing conifer trees (trees with cones).

Knotty: Any of a variety of wood species that have a number of decorative knots, typically used as paneling, trim and for making cabinets.

Millwork: A generic term that refers to trim, flooring, doors, windows, and other finished wood pieces and products.

MDF: The acronym for “medium density fiberboard.” This is a very common and popular engineered wood material, made from softwood fibers blended with resin and wax and bonded together using heat and high pressure. The resulting material is heavier and denser than particleboard, and is made into boards, sheets and trim.

Moisture Content (MC): Water is a big part of any tree, and when the tree is cut for lumber, some of that moisture needs to be removed prior to use. Lumber can be dried by stacking it in the open air with small spacers between the pieces, which is called air drying or stack drying. It can also be dried in a more controlled manner and to a lower moisture content by placing it in large heated driers, a process called kiln drying (abbreviated KD).

The actual amount of moisture that the finished lumber contains, called the moisture content, greatly affects how and where it should be used. For framing and exterior uses such as fencing and decking, a moisture content of 15-20 percent is common. Wood that is used for interior uses such as trim or paneling should be 12 percent or less, while wood used for cabinets, furniture and flooring should be around 8 percent or less.

OSB: The acronym for “oriented strand board.” This is an engineered wood material, made from layers of thin, roughly rectangular flakes or strands of wood. The strands are oriented lengthwise on the outer faces, while the inner layers are oriented perpendicular to the outer layers, similar to how the veneers are oriented in making plywood. The stands are bonded together with wax and resin under heat and pressure to form large mats, which are then cut into sheets or strips.

Sheet Goods: Wood that has been made up into sheets, either by laminating thin veneers together (plywood and paneling) or by gluing and pressing wood strips (OSB) or wood particles (particleboard, MDF) into standard size sheets. The most common sheet size is 4 feet by 8 feet in several different thicknesses.

Tight-Knot: A designation for any wood that contains knots that are fully encased in the wood and will not fall out as the wood dries. Tight-knot cedar, for example, is less expensive than clear cedar and is a popular alternative for decking and other exterior uses.

Veneered Wood: Since many types of woods used for millwork and cabinet making can be quite expensive, very thin sheets of the finish-grade wood — called veneers — are often laminated over lesser expensive woods such as pine or composites such as particleboard or MDF. Veneered lumber, trim, and sheets are all commonly available in a variety of wood species.”

Here is some useful and informative information on upkeep for your home

Over time, many homes develop little nonstructural problem areas that need to be dealt with, and it seems like the older the house, the more of those little problems that occur. Here’s some advice on fixing a few of the more common door and trim situations you might typically encounter  read more